TMB: Synopsis ‘ a look back…’
- Graeme Stoten
- Sep 8
- 7 min read
Trail overview
The Tour du Mount Blanc or TMB as its better known amongst hikers, is a magnificent trail through 3 countries; France, Italy and Switzerland, weaving through the valleys and mountain passes (Cols) that surround Mont Blanc and in total covering a distance of 170km and an ascent of 10,000 m, higher than Everest!
We like many who take to the trail, chose to travel in an anti-clockwise direction over 11 days but including a highly recommended rest day in Courmayeur and with arrival and departure days factored in, our adventure took in total 14 days.
Many who undertake this great journey, book all or some of their accommodation in advance individually, many choose to camp, many adopt to stay principally in Refuges or just bravely take pot luck! There are many villages along the way offering hotel and guest house accommodation and we wanted a comfortable but varied choice of bed and meal for the night. So as a group largely of sexagenarians and requiring a small degree of home comfort and privacy we engaged an agent to secure all our accommodation as the bookings came on-line. In that respect we were supported by the excellent team at ‘Adventure Base’ plus copious superb advice from Mags Nixon of ‘Tour du Mont Blanc Hike’ fame.
There is a great deal of ascending and descending to tackle the well trodden and clear path. On average a daily ascent of over 1000m with varied gradients and many welcome switch backs. But there is little flat walking, after all it is a mountain trail as such much walking involves ascending from valley floor or hillside, through meadows, up through the forest line to a mix of gravel and rocky paths to reach the high passes and Cols and the summits that await and then … a descent!
Every ascent brings the reward of a phenomenal view of the mountainous landscape, the Col de La Croix Bonhomme, Col de La Seigne and Col de Baume being very memorable stretching either immediately in front to reveal the paths and peaks ahead, or stretching onto the horizon crossing borders as the Alpine massif travels east.
The lower passes offer more in the way of meadows laden with wild flowers, sheltered woods and forest paths, birdlife and alpine livestock - the far reaching clang of cowbells omnipresent.
The descents can be brutal at times as both long and time consuming, particularly when the objective for the day is now behind, so there are several opportunities for taking gondolas and chairlifts to reach the valley floor and the next stopover, Courmayeur in our case from Maison Vieille. Equally public buses and shuttles can speed up the start or end of the day when staying in the valley villages.
Our trip took place in the middle two weeks of July and the weather was outstanding with only one afternoon of cloud and rainfall whilst descending from Lac Blanc towards the end of the the trip. Temperatures on the valley floor were close to 30 C but then as we climbed often with initial shelter from hillside forest, the temperature would settle to late teens, then on with our fleeces as the wind crept up on the Cols.
So whilst predominantly we followed the main route there are at least 9 mapped variants to reach higher passes or dodge fowl weather in particular lightening. And then the many footpaths which allow further hillside to be explored. We took the Bellevue Cablecar on stage 1 so we could enjoy the Col de Tricot comfortably and so skip 800 m of relatively unexciting ascent, with much climbing to follow this at least allowed us to ease into the trail.
Accommodation/hospitality
Hotel Heliopic: arrival/departure days. Pool and Sauna. Bar. Excellent restaurant/buffet breakfast.
Hotel Gai Soleil: Homely. Garden bar. Good local food and cold buffet breakfast.
Refuge de La Croix du Bonhomme: Basic and hearty dining en masse. Bar.
Cabane du Combal: Bar/restaurant. Hearty local food. Cold buffet breakfast.
Hotel Cresta et Duc: Sauna. Bar. Excellent restaurant/buffet breakfast.
Hotel Lavanchey: Bar. Excellent restaurant/local cuisine (almost the best on trail). Cold buffet breakfast.
Hotel Edelweiss: Bar. Good local food. Buffet breakfast.
Pension en Plein Air: Bar. Hearty buffet dining en masse inc. Breakfast.
La Grande Ourse: Outdoor Bar. Long table dining, Good local food, buffet breakfast.
Hotel Couronne: Sauna. Bar and restaurant. Excellent cuisine and generous buffet breakfast.
Refuge de La Flegere: Bar. Hearty dining en masse. Simple buffet breakfast.
Preparation/Training
Getting ready or the ‘six degrees’ of preparation! 1 - Once the duration of the trip has been ascertained, how far will each stage stretch, and is it the entire trail or part thereof. 2 - Choosing the time of year: snow/ice, warm temperatures, busy or quieter. 3 - Booking accommodation to suit the stage lengths, Hut to Hut, Hotels or wild camping. 4 - Packing list, carrying everything to suit (my list beneath) or utilsing luggage transfer. 5 - pre-booking flights, transfers (we used ‘Mountain drop offs’) and all important travel insurance ( I used True traveller). 6 - Getting physically fit and prepared with a suitable training programme.
The entire trail covers altitudes between 1200 and 2600 m, I had never visited the Alps before and certainly never previously walked at these altitudes, but there was no need to be concerned. The clarity of the air is sensational compared to West London (my home), so an initial apparent thinness higher up, quickly disappeared once we were acclimatised.
Although our group were quite fit for our ages, I wanted to ensure I could handle multiple days of regular ascent and descent with a full pack. I walk regularly but now needed one long walk a week up to 24 km, and pre- arranged day trips segueing days together to simulate the continuous Hut Treking. Not much in the way of big hills in West London, so I took to the North Downs, regularly visited Box Hill, three days in the Brecon Beacons to climb Pen y Fan (tried out youth hostel), and climbing Helvelyn in the Lake District. The latter 6 months focussed on ‘road testing’ my back pack on each walk and two regular cardio sessions in the Gym each week, particularly the stairmaster and the multi gym for an all over workout.
Packing list
My goal was to keep my backpack under 7 kg with 1 litre of water on board. I adopted a wear 1 pack 2 approach and sort to keep everything as light as possible. The pre booked excursions were really helpful in deciding what was essential and unnecessary. Clearly the weather plays a huge part in the performance of clothing and supporting kit and with the prediction of spectacular weather, I decided before arriving in Chamonix to abandon thermals and microspikes. We also had the benefit of leaving a hold bag at the Heliopic, to which we were returning, to offload arrival and departure clothing.
I budgeted extensively but put good money into walking boots (Scarpa), walking poles (Black Diamond), backpack (Alpine Lowe) and wet weather outer shell (Patagonia).
Breaking it down:-
Backpack (35litres)
Walking Boots (well worn in!)
Walking poles (2)
Technical T- shirts x3
Technical underwear x3
Extreme socks - which I find the most comfortable x3
Pair of shorts (thigh pockets) x1
Hiking trousers long (Rab) x1
Lightweight fleece x1
Pack away lightweight down jacket x1 (especially for the refuges at altitude)
Thin gloves, snood and beanie
Sun hat
Waterproof outer shell and long lightweight over trousers
Quick dry towel and shower gel (especially for refuges)
Toiletries as required/ foot - heel balm
Factor 50 suncream
Medical kit - blisteeze, nitric tape, savlon, general plasters, antiseptic wipes, foil blanket, painkillers
Flip flops
Small power bank, dual USB adapter (Euro 2 pin)
iPhone running imported gpx files for back up.. camera.
Guide map - Adventure books: ‘Tour du Mont Blanc’
Guidebook - Cicerone Trekking: ‘The Tour Du Mont Blanc’
Travel body pouch - passport/insurance docs/cash/Monzo card/Credit card
Snacks/lunch
Water bladder (Camel) 2 litres
WaterBottle 750 ml
Support/advice
Highly recommend the ‘Tour Du Mont Blanc Hike’ website by Mags Nixon. Highly experienced hiker and guide. The site is very extensive with many different itineraries to choose from, superb tips and first hand knowledge of all aspects of the trail. Mags also offers in person zoom calls to discuss any aspect of the TMB.
Mags works with Adventure Base, a superb agent with extensive outdoor experience offering a full booking service and on ground support with a dedicated itinerary app. Harriet, Tristan and their team provided a very safe and reassuring pair of hands during the planning and preparation of our trip.
‘TMB Facebook’ group, and the many individual blogs that can be found surfing the internet and YouTube. The Cicerone guidebook ‘The Tour Du Mont Blanc’ by Kev Reynolds et al, is excellent as is the Tour Du Mont Blanc Guide map from Adventure Books.
Top tips
Monzo/ Cash in Euros, Swiss francs not required.
Check ahead for lunch stops, take advantage of guest house packed lunches.
Plenty of water stops/refills - I like to split 1 litre between bottle and bladder/camel.
Use plenty of sunblock and wear a sun hat.
Hiking poles - ‘knee savers’ I prefer to use one to keep one hand free for camera/scrambling. Wrap identifying tape on each for refuges.
Use Airplane mode on phone to save power/ generally mobile coverage is very good with even refuges offering opportunities to charge devices.
Utilise cable car/chairlifts in place of brutal descents.
Dormitories - ear plugs, eye mask, pillow case along with silk sleeping bag liner (used only twice in refuges on our trip)
… and most importantly, savour every moment even when the climbs feel gruelling, relish the spectacular landscape and views and embrace the wonderful comradery and company of your fellow hikers.
And.. this blog:
.. Whilst I normally focus on the path and terrain in my photo blogs elsewhere on this site,
I have broken with the norm and included much more of the surrounding landscape on this trip as the astonishing views and panoramas, the accompanying sense of achievement in completing the trail and the thrill of endless adventure which I hope I have captured, will inspire the path treader in you. Enjoy, happy trekking!..
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